The wisdom of Huizhou turned 'stinky' into delicate — stinky mandarin fish is the pride of Anhui cuisine.
The fragrance of stinky mandarin fish is only for those who understand.
Stinky mandarin fish is the most famous dish of Huizhou cuisine. The fish is salted and left to ferment naturally at the right temperature and humidity. It smells slightly strong, but once cooked, the flesh is tender and the aroma rich — the classic 'smells bad, tastes great'.
The dish was born out of the Huizhou merchants' transport problem. Mandarin fish were carried from the Yangtze to the mountain towns of Huizhou, and the long journey spoiled fresh fish easily. Clever merchants salted them for preservation, and the fermented fish turned out to have a wonderful flavour — a great dish was born by accident.
The fermentation demands precise time and temperature. The fish must be fresh, the salt moderate, and the curing takes about a week. A properly fermented mandarin fish has firm, garlic-clove flesh that holds together, with a distinctive 'fragrant stink'.
Stinky mandarin fish is usually braised or dry-cooked with diced pork belly, bamboo shoots and mushrooms, simmered slowly so the sauce seeps into the flesh. When it comes out, the fish is glossy red, the meat tender, and the smell has transformed into a deep savouriness.
In Huizhou, stinky mandarin fish is the centrepiece of any feast and the homesickness of Huizhou merchants who travelled the country. Today it has spread across China, and many Anhui restaurants list it as their signature.
When you visit Huangshan or Shexian, try stinky mandarin fish. With a bowl of rice and a story from the owner, you will understand that this 'stinky' dish holds the wisdom and longing of Huizhou.
