At two in the morning, Changsha's streets are still steaming.
Changsha nights begin with a plate of spicy crayfish.
Changsha's night stalls get going around nine. Spicy crayfish, stinky tofu, skewers, snail — the table cannot hold it all. The crayfish are glossy red; pull on the gloves, peel one, dip it in the sauce, gasp at the heat — and your hand keeps going.
Stinky tofu is Changsha's signature. Black tofu hits the oil, frying crisp outside and tender inside; poke a hole, pour in chilli-garlic juice, and one bite is fragrant despite the smell. The owner says Changsha people crave it daily.
At one in the morning, Pozi Street is still loud. Students, night-shift workers and tourists crowd the same tables. Changsha people have made night food a way of life: however tiring the day, one plate of crayfish at night and every worry is gone.
